This Tedx Talks episode titled “The Simple Cure of Loneliness”
The speaker, Baya Voce, talking about how a “ritual” with your loved ones can be your “anchor of connection” to prevent loneliness. “Ritual” she talked about isn’t a religious one, but rather, a time spent repeatedly and intentionally with people who see, hear, and value you. It can be as simple as having a meal together.
As an introvert, it’s very hard for me to build connections. Once I have the connection, it’s important to me to always push my self towards maintaining and strengthening them.
So when my department discussed about a two days trip to Cirebon, I immediately said yes, eventhough I have ever been there on a similar short trip and Cirebon isn’t on my top priority to explore more about.
In this post, I will share few tips to get the most out of this small city.
Tip #1: Start early, and have lunch as your first stop
If you depart from Jakarta and use car instead of train, start as early as possible. Cirebon can be reached by car or bus in a one day trip, but it is still pretty far from Jakarta. Cirebon is approximately 297 km from Jakarta, or more than twice the distance of Bandung. It is actually located near the West Java and Central Java border.
It might be not convenient for the driver, but eat a simple breakfast on the car will save you tons of time. Eventhough you start as early as 6 am, you will arrive around noon. So, it should be convenient to make a culinary destination as your first stop in the city for an early lunch.
I recommend “Empal Gentong Haji Apud” or any big Empal Gentong place nearby. After a long journey, the savoury and flavorful soup should refresh you for next activities. You can choose between Empal Gentong, with coconut milk soup, or Empal Asem, with tangy clear soup; both have excellent taste with juicy and tender meat chunks in it. It is a hearty meal, yet it doesn’t sit heavy in your stomach.
At “Haji Apud”, they also serve mutton satay. A plate consist of ten skewers, so you can have it as a side dish and share it with your friends. I wonder how they cooked the meat so even the fatty parts doesn’t leave oily after-taste in your mouth. All the dishes are excellent and it definitely deserve to be a flagship cuisine of Cirebon tourism.
Tip #2: Splurge on the Keraton (Palace)
Keraton Kasepuhan remains the only Keraton I ever visited, despite Cirebon having 4 Keratons. The entry ticket is very cheap at IDR 15,000 per person, which might also explain why the place is not very well maintained.
At the gate, you will see some guards with traditional clothing. Actually, they don’t only stand there to greet you welcome, but they also provide a tour guide service with additional tariff. You can still look around the palace without a guide, but a knowledgeable guide will add so much more value to your experience.
A guide will typically explain about the architecture of the Keraton, the symbolism used, the history, and the royal lineage. It is quite interesting to know, as well as quite sad, because it is clear that the Keraton is well past its golden age.
They do have a spacious front court with lush sheltering trees where you can just stroll leisurely while taking pictures of the surrounding.
When I first went to Kasepuhan Palace in 2015, they used to have a small museum inside the complex that you can enter for free. Presently in 2018, that museum is apparently closed, but they open a new one in separate building, which you can enter with additional IDR 25,000.
Now that might sound expensive compares to the Palace entrance fee, but I’d say go for it! Keraton is such an essential part of Cirebon tourism, and the heart of the whole city’s history. Going to the Keraton is half the reason you go to Cirebon, so it is worth to explore thoroughly.
They might charge more to maintain the new air conditioned building and hopefully periodical cleaning of the artifacts, and I think any efforts toward preserving those should be supported. If they would invest more in public restroom facility and general cleanliness, I actually don’t mind to pay more, because it is such a waste to see a palace with hundred years of history so poorly maintained.
Tip #3: Bring 2 sets of clothes for your day
Cirebon is a port city, so it’s right by the sea and the weather is usually quite hot. If you plan to check in to your hotel in late afternoon and then go out again for the evening, you better bring two sets of clothes for the day. I made a mistake and didn’t bring any change except for the next day. So on the first day of my trip, eventhough I was super sweaty from all the walking, I had to keep that day’s clothes throughout the evening as well.
After checked in to our hotel, me and my colleagues went to Klapa Manis Restaurant for dinner, then to CSB Mall for a karaoke.
I still managed to enjoy our time because it was super fun, but if any of my colleagues smelled that I wasn’t really fresh for the rest of the evening, I AM SO TERRIBLY SORRY =P
Tip #4: You don’t have to spend on luxury hotel
In some holiday spots, lazing around in the hotel, enjoying the sumptuous facilities and comfort might be part of your holiday. This might be true for Bali or Bandung, but you don’t have to bother about that in Cirebon. As I said before, Cirebon can get quite hot in the afternoon, so if you plan to go to an outdoor tourist attraction, you want to be up and about from early morning. It’s really no difference whether you stay at well known chain like Aston or a more affordable budget hotel.
I really recommend our hotel, Vinotel Cirebon. The rooms were comfortable, the air conditioner and the hot water ran perfectly. The two star hotel might seem modest from the front facade, but I think they do have a very nice interior design. While it’s not grand or spacious, the modern and minimalist touch gave enough refreshing vibes to makes you feel special and appropriately “on vacation”.
Tip #5: Go for Outdoor Trip in Early Morning
Since Cirebon is a rather hot city, early morning should be utilized as chance to explore outdoor tourist spots. I even suggest you to swap breakfast for a brunch or early lunch to get the most out of your morning. My department first destination for Day 2 is “Sunyaragi Cave”, which is located just nearby our hotel.
The place is said to be designed as meditation place for the royal family. With IDR 10,000 as entrance fee, you can take a leisure stroll around this man-made cave-like complex. Again, I highly recommend you to hire a guide who can explain about the history and original functions.
While listening to the guide, it might be easier to imagine the caves in its former magificent state, when the reservoir was still full and the artificial waterfalls still hid some of the cave entrances. The complex is also named “water park” because it used to be surrounded by a lake, which now gone and replaced by a roadway. The place must have been so serene in the past, when all you could hear is the gurgle of water and nature sound.
The structure is still mostly intact and interesting enough to take a look at, but I wish the local government would do more restorative work to bring back what must have been a far more regal sanctuary.
Tip #6: Have your meal and buy your souvenir at Batik Trusmi Center
Since “Nasi Jamblang Bu Nur” is such a popular dining place, me and my colleagues did have our lunch there, but if you plan to drop by at Batik Trusmi Center to hunt this well known Cirebon fashion, have a meal there might be a more efficient option.
They have a big restaurant “Batik Kitchen” just next to the shop, and it also serves “Nasi Jambang Mang Dul”, another well known Nasi Jamblang name.
Beside batik clothing and fabric, Batik Trusmi Center also provides a wide range of souvenirs selection. Granted, the price might be a little more expensive than more traditional places, but I did enjoy my (window) shopping experience at Batik Trusmi immensely, because most of the products have cute and modern packaging.
My recommendation to bring home for your family and friends is this tapai brownies, which successfully blend the unique flavour of tapai into the familiar scrumptiousness of brownies. It was de-light-ful.
Or, if you prefer savory treat, then these milkfish products or instant Empal Gentong seasoning might suit you better.
End Word
I think Cirebon is doing a great effort in order to promote their tourism.
They have 1st class culinary, they sell their product online, they modernize the face of Cirebon souvenirs and make it more marketable to younger generations.
However, I think the more urgent need lies in revamping the tourist attractions itself.
My heart is a little bit broken at the state of Cirebon Keraton and its affiliations currently at.
If only they preserve it better, modernize it and provide better sanitary facility, Cirebon will be much more attractive for tourist. Temples and museums in Japan for example, is in such prime conditions even now because the great maintenance and care (and undeniably, the amount of fund they get).
I had fun with my department colleagues, but if I someday got a chance to visit Cirebon again, I hope the condition will have been turned for the better.
See you in the next blogpost!
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